How to get your dog to stop barking? If you’re a dog owner with a “world-class” barker, you’re probably familiar with the stress of disrupted silence or dealing with grumpy neighbors. In this article, we will give some tips on how to get your dog to stop barking.
Dogs always have a purpose for barking. Various barks have also been proven to communicate different emotions in studies (though a few breeds, like the poodle and the American Staffordshire Terrier, appear limited in their vocal repertory). The higher the pitch, the more atonal and repeated the bark, the more stressed the dog is.
In a recent study of 84 dogs from nine breeds, including Poodles, Weimaraners, American Staffordshire Terriers, German Shepherds, Alaskan Malamutes, Bull Terriers, and Muensterlaenders, researchers discovered up to a dozen different forms of barking. Subtle differences even matched to “dialects” that the dogs employed in the same settings at different times.
Males tend to bark less if neutered because they are less territorial, despite the fact that there is no difference in the percentage of extreme barkers between males and females.
Barking differs by breed; many Beagles, Terriers, and certain herding breeds bark more than others, which is understandable given that this is one of the traits for which they were developed before you learn about how to get your dog to stop barking.
Almost all canine behavioral experts believe that understanding what causes excessive barking is critical to treating the problem. You’ll need patience and understanding to address issue barking, but teaching your barker a few basic obedience instructions can also help a lot.
Surprisingly, teaching your dog to bark on demand is also an effective means of teaching them to stop. They learn when barking is acceptable and when it is not, as well as what your command is for when to stop.
What isn’t working
– Shouting “No” louder than the dog makes matters worse since the dog thinks you’re barking as well. It isn’t a long-term answer, though.
– Hugging or soothingly talking to a barking dog is a “no no,” since the dog will begin to believe that there IS something to be concerned about. Barking is only reinforced by coddling.
– Hitting your dog doesn’t solve the problem of your dog barking. If your dog is barking out of worry, striking her simply adds to her list of concerns, since she looks to you for direction rather than pain.
– hurling objects at the dog This is a great method to wreck a show dog while also giving the dog more incentive to bark. Distracting yourself by throwing can-filled coins is a good idea, but it must be done right. Continue reading.
– Confining the dog in a tiny place for long periods of time. This is enough to make a dog bark.
What are the most common causes of barking?
- Protective/Territorial Behavior
- Barking when startled or afraid
- Boredom or attention-seeking
- Self-identification
- Play/Excitement
- Separation or Loneliness Anxiety
How to get your dog to stop barking?
Let’s go a little further into the causes and treatments for barking as well as find our answer on how to get your dog to stop barking.
Loneliness or Separation Anxiety
Loneliness or Separation Anxiety is arguably the most common reason for excessive barking; it’s also the most difficult to diagnose because it usually happens when the dog’s owner is away.
The owner may never realize they have a problem barker unless they receive a complaint. Adding to the difficulty is determining whether barking is excessive. When it comes to barking, some neighbors have a hair-trigger, and even a few typical “woofs” are enough to elicit a complaint.
If your dog exhibits behaviors that indicate a deep attachment to you, such as following you from room to room, hurriedly welcoming you, or behaving nervously as you prepare to leave, be wary.
As a dog grows increasingly aroused and nervous, anxiety barking becomes self-reinforcing. The higher the pitch of the bark, the more agitated the dog is. Neighbors can hear these barking very loudly.
Counter-conditioning, desensitization, and training the dog to relax can all help with separation anxiety barking. For example, commanding the dog to “lay down” is useful since reclining canines do not bark as loudly while lying down.
Running numerous “drills” is the greatest method to desensitize a dog to your departure. Begin by altering your behaviors to make it appear as though you are leaving the house.
Before leaving the house, most of us have regular patterns of behavior, which adds to the dog getting apprehensive. If picking up vehicle keys is the last thing you do before leaving the house, DON’T picks up the car keys last; instead, put your shoes on last – and then don’t go. Take a seat on the couch and read a book; pretend to chat on the phone.
If you only listen to music on weekends while you’re at home, turn it on throughout the week. Set your alarm for weekends, wake up, but stay at home, as difficult as it may be.
Continue to alter your routine until your dog no longer responds to your commands. It’s also critical not to lavish attention to your dog when you depart.
Gradually increase the amount of time you leave the dog alone, perhaps a minute or two. Return to the home before the dog becomes agitated and begins to bark. You’re not incentivizing barking; instead, you’re incentivizing relaxation and stillness. Gradually prolong your absence and return before the dog becomes agitated.
If your dog seems worried even when you leave the room, begin by just taking a few steps away from her while she stays calm. During this procedure, you cannot move too slowly – but you may go too rapidly.
If you think your dog is lonely, consider hiring a pet sitter or dog walker, or looking into a “doggie daycare facility or playgroup,” all of which are becoming increasingly appealing and practical choices that are a “win-win” for everyone involved.
You may expect to spend up to $25 each day, but it’s a lot less expensive than paying penalties or dealing with continuous complaints from your neighbors.
Consult your veterinarian, a local training facility, or the phone book to find a doggy daycare center or “playgroup” for your dog. High-end pet stores are also likely to know who in the neighborhood provides pet sitting or playgroup services, and they frequently carry their business cards.
Always remember that when your dog barks because he’s lonely or nervous, he’s not punishing you, nor is he having fun. Consider how you feel when you’re genuinely stressed about something to get a sense of how your dog feels.
Keep communication open with angry neighbors to indicate that you ARE working on the problem, and be patient and understanding while you assist your dog work through this.
Dog pounds are teeming with perplexed and befuddled canines that were placed there after their owners were either forced to give them up due to barking or failed to address the dog’s issue.
Barking for attention or boredom
Dogs of all ages rapidly learn that their barking is noticed by people. It makes no difference if we’re enraged with them or if we’ve just yelled “NO!”
Barking is reinforced by negative attention, which is still attention. It’s best to ignore this sort of barking, which might sound like a continuous yap that eventually evolves into a howl.
Controlling this sort of barking can sometimes be as simple as using a remote correction: Tossing coins from an empty Coke can away from the dog divert him from barking. Giving the dog a reward, a toy, or a walk as an alternative for barking is crucial at this time.
Just make sure she’s not barking before you give her the replacement, otherwise, she’ll think it’s a reward for barking.
If the dog is frequently left alone, has few opportunities to connect with you, lives in an environment devoid of friends or toys, or is under the age of three, the dog is most likely barking out of boredom.
Things stuffed with peanut butter or broken dog biscuits… toys that keep you occupied… Treat-Dispensing Balls are a fantastic option. Rotating the toys keeps them fresh and fascinating, as does concealing different toys around the dog’s habitat.
Self-identification barkers may be difficult to manage, particularly in a household with many dogs, and especially if the dogs are kept outside. An instigating dog is typically present, and other dogs tend to join in.
When your dog hears other dogs barking, he or she will do this. It may be managed via the use of compliance and relaxation techniques, as well as the provision of alternative behavior such as playing with a toy.
If your dog gets excited when she hears other dogs barking, you may educate her on how to respond correctly by going to websites where you can choose from a variety of dog barks for her to hear. Just type “dog barking audio” in Google.
When your dog hears the computer barking and begins to bark, take advantage of the chance to teach him how to respond by saying, “Enough.”
Put a treat in your dog’s mouth as soon as he stops barking – even if it’s only to catch his breath before the next bark – and exclaim, “Good boy!” Repeat. Perform this on a regular basis, and make sure to do it outside in “actual” situations.
Things stuffed with peanut butter or broken dog biscuits… toys that keep you occupied… Treat-Dispensing Balls are a fantastic option. Rotating the toys keeps them fresh and fascinating, as does concealing different toys around the dog’s habitat.
Self-identification barkers may be difficult to manage, particularly in a household with many dogs, and especially if the dogs are kept outside. An instigating dog is typically present, and other dogs tend to join in.
When your dog hears other dogs barking, he or she will do this. It may be managed via the use of compliance and relaxation techniques, as well as the provision of alternative behavior such as playing with a toy.
Territorial barks become an issue when directed towards joggers, delivery persons, or children riding bicycles, and they can occur during walks or in the dog’s own property.
The fact that these individuals ultimately depart reinforces the dog’s barking, and the dog now believes that his barking drove the intruders away. To get your dog to quit barking like this, train him to respond to a stop command or signal. There are a few options for accomplishing this:
Making a noise to divert the dog from barking is one method. SAY “ENOUGH” AS SOON AS THE DOG COMES TO A STOP and quickly reward the dog with praise or a goodie. If you don’t offer the incentive until the barking ends, the dog will believe it’s being rewarded for barking rather than for halting it.
Another option is to allow your dog two or three barks at a passerby before saying “enough” and interrupting the barking by squirting water into her mouth with a spray bottle or squirt gun. If only for a little period, the surprise should force her to stop barking. Say “Good Dog!” at that moment, when she’s silent.
in a cheerful tone, and shove a goodie into her lips The squirt isn’t intended to punish her; rather, it’s intended to startle her into quieting down so you may reward her.
Short and sharp barks are common in play/excitement barking. These barks are typical when a dog becomes very enthusiastic about a game, whether it’s with you or another dog.
When the barking becomes severe, it’s best to stop playing, give the dog(s) a chance to settle down, and then continue play after the barking has subsided.
If it starts up again, go through the steps again. If the problem persists, it’s time to find a new hobby. The dog(s) will eventually learn to play with its “inner” voice.
When a dog is confronted with an unusual or abrupt sound or action, such as a car coming into the driveway or thunder, startled or fear barking occurs.
Your dog’s body language conveys fear: ears back, tail low…and his barks are short and sharp. Desensitivity training works effectively for this sort of barking.
In other words, you expose the dog to the sounds that shock him on a regular basis. Start by capturing the sound, such as thunder, firecrackers, motorbikes, and so forth, or by purchasing a sound recording. Play the sound to your dog gently so that he remains comfortable when he hears it.
Reward her if she keeps silent. Gradually increase the level over days and weeks until she is no longer frightened into barking when she hears it.
If nothing else helps to stop your dog from barking excessively, you may have a pathologic barker – a dog who barks obsessively compulsively about innocuous things (a leaf falling) or becomes hyper-excited and hostile when humans or other dogs approach. More significant behavior adjustment is required for these dogs, and a team approach is strongly advised.
The team can be made up of family members, dog pals, or anybody else who wants to work with the dog as long as they know how to use the same commands as the rest of the team.
In this situation, the services of a behavior modification specialist, as well as a veterinarian who may propose medicine in the early stages, may be quite beneficial. We think of medicine as a last resort, but if your neighbors are threatening to sue you, your alternatives are limited.
Other Barking Treatments
Other barking treatments exist, and we’d be negligent if we didn’t include them, even if we feel they don’t address the base of the problem: the cause. Bark collars and de-barking are two of these alternatives.
Bark collars function by generating a reaction to barking that the dog perceives and dislikes. Be warned, though, that some adamant barkers would prefer to be penalized for barking than not bark at all.
When the dog barks, citronella collars release a citrus smell or mist around the dog’s snout. As an added deterrent, some collars emit a sound before spraying. Dogs aren’t supposed to appreciate this fragrance in principle, but we’ve heard of dogs who enjoy it.
A citrus collar has the advantage of alerting you to the fact that your dog was barking while you were gone since the citrus fragrance remains in the air.
Sonic/ultrasonic/vibration collars emit a supposedly inaudible tone that grows unpleasant to the dog over time, preventing barking.
When the dog barks, electrical shock collars sting or shock the dog. They irritate us. Not only do we favor positive reinforcement, but we also believe that shock collars fail to discriminate between normal and harmful barking.
The collar, in the end, punishes the dog for being a dog. We also don’t like the fact that not all collars include a failsafe mechanism that prevents continuous functioning after a set period of time. Consider what would happen if the dog got out of the yard or went missing, and was stuck in the collar until the battery died.
Escalation collars utilize modest levels of output that progressively rise until the barking ceases, whereas combination collars use both sound and spray. Escalation devices are more “sporty” in that they “reward” the dog for stopping sooner and allow the dog to learn by limiting barking before a stronger response is delivered.
Debarking (which is banned in the UK) is a surgical procedure that reduces tissue in a dog’s vocal cords to reduce the volume of the dog’s bark. To remove tissue, some veterinarians use a punch, others use incisions, and yet others use a laser. The dog can still bark, but it has a “hoarse” sound about it.
Scar tissue can grow in certain dogs, causing them to bark louder than when they initially debarked. In certain quarters, this is a contentious issue, especially in light of animal rights groups’ efforts across the country to make debarking illegal.
When confronted with a compulsive barker, neighbors threatening legal action, and animal control breathing down their necks, some individuals find the sound of a debarked dog more unpleasant than a real bark, while others believe it to be their only choice.
We don’t always get ideal pets, but I’ve yet to meet one that wasn’t worth the time, effort, and patience and apply your learning gon how to get your dog to stop barking
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